Gorgeous Niue
As we were rocking for a few days now, with the main sail banging from left to right it’s not a surprise to find the top line broken on the deck this morning… And it was brand new! So new lesson learned: just sail without the main in winds from behind and waves from the side, at least this high! It just doesn’t work on a cat. Luckily the windspeed was not too high so we could continue under spinnaker only 😎 It's slower but we’ll get there!
While everybody is enjoying the last few days of the ‘big’ holiday, we are again out at sea. We had to skip Palmerston island as the waves were once again to big. We’re just crossing fingers that we will make it for the minuscule good weather window while we are in Niue since there is no protection form the ocean at all. Our friends have been stuck rocking on their boat for several days because it’s impossible to go on land… You’ll see why in a minute!
The girls present their Pearl Farm this morning. To my big surprise they really listened to the lady in Tahaa!
28th of August 2019
There it is: Niue. A big chunk of uplifted coral. It’s only last minute that we notice this cake shaped island.
There are 17 moorings and there were three left this morning, but … none as we arrive! Aaaargh…
As the reef extends quite far around the island we only find one good spot to anchor in 33 meters! First time for us and a bit scary! But our Spade anchor sets nicely and we have 100m chain out, coool!
We have to wait for immigration in the morning, but are quite happy to just catch up on sleep and swim around the boat. It’s really a flat calm sea now, we’re sooo thrilled!
29th of August 2019
There’s a fishing contest this morning. They’re all around on kayaks to catch tuna. It’s like a real prestigious competition too!
We’re going on land to meet government officials three hours later… And we’re only allowed to stay on the cay…
But no problem there's plenty to see!
This is why it’s so difficult to get on land (it’s the only way!):
This is why it’s so difficult to get on land (it’s the only way!):
1. You drop of your crew at a ladder. They will manipulate the crane!
2. You have to wait you’re turn since with approximately 20 boats, it’s ‘high’ season!
3. Catch the hook!
3. Stop talking, people are waiting!
4. Try to get out without getting wet.
5. And then lift the boat and put it on the cart. The crane only goes up and down, the pulling is manual 😜
We are finally cleared in, they’re not fast but very friendly 😏 A few weird questions though. This is the first time we had to specify hair colour of the Captain 😲🙈
But ok, it’s noon, it’s Thursday and we want to get the clearance out done straight away as to able to leave on Sunday … So now that we’re allowed to set foot on land, we’ll just walk over to the office.
We checked out the yacht club for a Niue flag, but the guy that runs it is also the only taxi driver on the island and apparently very busy!
Oh look we just missed the Wynns, a vlog couple that is going the same way as us and we wouldn’t be unhappy to really meet them once as we really had great ideas while following them on their journey 😎
It’s so different from French territory and the first thing you see is … graves …
And after a visit to the amazing visitor centre, you see more … graves … graves in every front yard, along the road …
It is about 45 minutes walk, but we stop at Crazy UGA café for a delicious and affordable lunch and we get a ride from the school bus 😀 Already we feel Niue is going to be fantastic!!!
A whole day of paperwork done, we had to plan the next two days minutiously as to get the most out of it. Lot’s of places to swim, but some are better on low tide, some on high tide …
So I realise it’s a lot of words, but maybe worth it to get a feel for the way we live most of the time? Sailing, sailing, sailing, clearance and lots of waiting, visit planning, budget planning, and up next why we do it all 😏
30th of August 2019
8:30, we managed to come ashore without a splash, but as we rent a car we realise we forgot our driver’s license… In Niue that’s no problem though, they only write down you’re name and you’re good to go! We think we might have gotten the owner’s car 😳
After a 50 minute bumpy drive (with plenty off … graves …) we arrive at our first stop: TOGO CHASM.
An amazing walk through this forest amongst meters high ancient corals!
A bit windy on the other side and tricky to get down. We try to see two boats that have hit the reef on this side of the island. I know we’re real ‘disaster tourists’, but it’s actually one of my biggest nightmares: to hit something… and if you’re very unlucky it’s far far from land …
Soit… this walk is truly as nothing we’ve ever seen! These rocks are all ancient corals!
And then you arrive at a patch of heaven, hidden between these rocks! The girls were a bit impressed by the big ladder!
And we didn’t want to get our shoes off 😳😏
The other boat kids are maybe a bit more adventurous as us, climbing everywhere over these sharp rocks!
We would stay all day, but we’re on the clock so after a small snack we’re off to hike number two: ANAPALA CHASM
We’re driving through a village called Hakupu. They’re all like that. Lot’s of empty houses due to the last cyclone that hit Niue…
The hike is very short: 146 steps towards a fresh water source. It’s an impressive gorge. In ancient times the locals went down there to collect their fresh water. Nowadays there’s a pump and you can fill up your bottles at the beginning of the hike. Or be a clown and play a bit with it!
So we stop at Avatele beach to swim with the seasnakes. Worlds' most venimous but never aggressive and ever so beautiful!
The water is cloudy on top as it starts to heat up in the sun, but it’s actually warmer (and clearer) at the bottom, very nice to dive 😎
After this busy morning we decide it’s time to get spoiled, so we stop at the scenic Matavai Resort. Amazing view of the bay and our boat.
A bit underdressed, but they don’t seem to mind. I think they’re used to hikers at Niue 😏
And a good burger! And very greasy pizza!
The girls don’t need ‘much’ to get comfortable 😍
Too close of this wonderful day, we played some mini golf over the most beautiful golf coarse ever seen!
31st of August 2019
Ready for another day. We visit the northern part of the island now. So first stop at MUTALAU
Stop two: The TALAVA ARCHES. We missed the sign for this track so we ended up at the MATAPA CHASM we were going to swim at later today, but oh well! It’s a fresh water pond mixed with seawater on high tide, but we feel it’s still too cold to go in right now 😳
So back up to the arches.
A bit of a climb but what a special place once you get there!
We ‘squeezed’ in another hike before lunch at PALAHA Cave.
It’s enormous and impossible to get a picture of this huge chambre. Lot’s of hiding spaces for the girls 😲😄
And amazing ponds of small corals.
Hio Cafe is the only place where you can eat on a Saturday and only between 12 and 14 o’clock. So you’re better on time! It was a bit of a wait but look at these plates!
Since we’re (especially the girls) are a bit tired, we decide to go swimming at only two spots: AVAIKA Cave. The GPS doesn’t really know Niue exists…
We got in the car all wet and went to swim number two: the LIMU POOLS. Wonderful natural pools, but the water wasn’t quite high enough and very difficult to access. Add tired children and very cold water to the equation and the parents under us get the picture I guess!
Needless to say it was only dad that really discovered the pools. We three girls were just happy to chill in the sun!
No whales but nice view.
And the result of these two days is:
Again I apologize for the many many pictures. I can assure you I have been sifting through, but as Geoffrey says Niue, is ... Niue. One of our favourite islands, an "illuminating" island!
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